Sunday Drive: A new paradigm of wine

Opinion Opinion | Aug 24, 2023

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Somehow the concept of taking a Sunday drive up to Davis County for a tasting at a local winery seemed a bit incongruous. “Are you sure they’re even open on Sunday?” my wife, Carole, asked.

It seemed worth a try. So we headed north on I-15 to Layton, grabbing breakfast at Sill’s, a local cafe hangout, warming up for our tasting with a big plate of biscuits and gravy.

Arriving at The Hive Winery and Spirits Company, we immediately felt at home. This was nothing like the local DABC outlet. Taking a page out of Greg Schirf’s Wasatch Brewing playbook, the racks of bottles carried names like Bishop’s Daughter, a pie cherry wine. Or Elder Jack, from the Church of The Hive Winery, labeled with the tagline ‘Let the Conversion Begin.’

Yes, indeed, this was all about conversion. When you enter The Hive, you need to check your paradigm of wine — the pinots, cabernets or chardonnays — at the door. This is a new world of fruit, meads and melomels.

While the recession of 2008 was changing our world, local environmental engineers Jay and Lori Yahne had a whimsical conversation about turning their hobby of winemaking into an actual business. Two years later, The Hive became a reality. Today, it offers a welcoming opportunity for a new sensory experience enjoying wines and spirits from honey and non-grape fruits — nearly all of which is sourced right here in Utah.

Our sommelier for the afternoon welcomed us into the tasting room. Michael is a gregarious figure in the winery, with an affable smile hiding under his bushy beard. A Utah native, he attended culinary school here before heading to Colorado, eventually making his way back to the Beehive state.

Before we dove into the wines and spirits, we struck a chord commiserating over the lack of originality in the craft beer industry with seemingly endless takes on IPAs.

I opted to explore a flight of wines, while Carole chose spirits. With each pour, Michael regaled us with knowledge. My first glass was a winter mead. Technically, some would say, a mead is not actually a wine. While wine is made from fruits, a mead is fermented from the sugar of honey. Call it what you wish, this was a tasty start. It was dry with the pollen bringing out just the right taste of honey.

Next I moved from honey to Utah-harvested gooseberries. The gooseberry wine had a slight orangish tint in the bottle and was nearly clear in the glass. It had a delicate taste with a robust hint of the fruit — very enjoyable! At this point, I was hooked.

Carole began her foray into spirits with a series of three brandies — apricot, plum and pear. The pear brandy had such a different flavor going into the mouth, then the aftertaste of the pear was simply sparkling — a very complex but light experience.

Having enjoyed the winter mead, I was curious what a summer version would bring. “This one reminds me of the Greek pastry baklava,” laughed Michael. “You get that nuttiness … in a bottle!” It was decidedly more robust than the winter mead. Carole compared it to her favorite after dinner liqueur limoncello, but in a more gentle way.

Michael was quick to connect his products with Utah sources and history. Like Dig It Dark, a rum-style spirit distilled from beet sugar instead of cane. “We made this one in honor of Utah,” he said. “Utah made a good living off beet sugar from 1919 to 1959. In fact, our first street in Layton — Gentile — was first paved to get the sugar back to town.”

No doubt, this was one of our more unusual Sunday Drive adventures. But it was fascinating!

Cheers!

DETAILS

How to get there: Simply head up I-15 to Layton. For a slightly longer and more scenic route, drive around on I-80 to I-84 towards Ogden. As always, let your GPS be your guide.

Logistics: Tastings are by reservation Thursday through Sunday. Check it out at thehivewinery.com. The winery store is open daily (even Sundays).

Kids: The Hive is an adult experience. But consider nearby Lagoon for the kids.

Dining: Lots of options, but we love local icons like Sill’s, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner — including Sundays!

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